guide
Pearl 101 — Types, Grades, and How to Choose
Freshwater vs saltwater, AAA vs AAA+, what “grade” actually means — and what to look for when you shop.
All pearls are not created equal. Here's a plain-language walk-through of what you're actually buying.
The two categories
Saltwater pearls (Akoya, Tahitian, South Sea) — grown in oysters in the ocean. Famous for near-perfect round shape and silvery luster. The classic pearl-necklace pearls. Expensive.
Freshwater pearls — grown in mussels in freshwater lakes and rivers. Irregular shapes, softer luster, and at 10-20% of the price. Modern fashion jewelry heavily uses these because they're beautiful AND affordable. All of ours are freshwater.
The grading system
There's no single international grading standard for pearls, which is why it's confusing. Most sellers use some version of A / AA / AAA / AAA+ (or a parallel 3-letter system). Here's what each grade broadly means, using the common freshwater framework:
- A — noticeable imperfections, softer luster, often baroque (irregular) shapes. Fine for accent pieces.
- AA — a few surface marks visible up close, round-ish. Midrange.
- AAA — clean surface, good luster, near-round. Good for a statement piece.
- AAA+ — almost flawless surface, strong luster, very round. Our standard for the Lune Drop.
What actually matters
- Luster — the pearl's reflective quality. A good pearl has depth: you should be able to see your face in it faintly. Flat/chalky = low-grade.
- Surface cleanliness — blemishes, dimples, and growth marks. The fewer, the higher the grade. A few small ones are fine, especially on freshwater.
- Shape — round is the classic “premium” but baroque/oval pearls have become popular for modern pieces.
- Color — white/cream is standard, but freshwater comes in peach, pink, lavender, and dyed black. Natural color commands a premium over dyed.
- Nacre thickness — the pearl “shell” layer. Thick nacre = lasts longer, won't crack. Freshwater pearls are all nacre (no bead nucleus), so this is mostly a saltwater concern.
Care, briefly
Pearls are organic. No chemicals. No ultrasonic cleaners. Wipe with a slightly damp cloth after wear, store flat, separate from metals. Restring every 2-3 years if you wear a pearl necklace often (the silk thread weakens over time).
Spotting a fake
Real pearls feel slightly cool to the touch initially, then warm up. They have tiny imperfections on close inspection. The tooth test: gently rub against the edge of your front tooth — real pearls feel slightly gritty; glass or plastic feels completely smooth.
